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Kaas plateau, also known as the "Valley of Flowers" of the west is a UNESCO site where you get to see a vivid variety of blooming flowers across acres of a vast plateau. Locals also call it Kaas Patthar(meaning plateau or stone). It is located some 25 odd kilometers from Satara bus depot and can be easily accessed via local transport from Satara. The flower blooming season starts towards the end of monsoon i.e. late August to September and lasts till mid of October.
Last October, in 2021, I made a decision to visit this much talked about UNESCO site myself over a weekend. I boarded a bus to Satara from Kharghar three monkey point because I stay in Kharghar. As usual, a delay of 2.5 hours and I was the last one to board the bus from that place at 1:30am. Nevertheless, excited, I tried to sleep but couldn't and got dropped off at 5:30am in the dark on the main Satara highway near to the bus depot. Glad I had some mobile network and I could trace the path towards the bus depot, however, as I had a lot planned for that day and wanted to visit the plateau without too much crowd, I boarded an autorickshaw from a local rick stand. What is usually charged as Rs.1000-1500, I could negotiate with the auto guy for 700 (Note - if you have budget constraint and /or time in your hands, go for the bus as it is going to be cheaper. Buses readily go at regular intervals from Satara bus stand towards Bamnoli. The drop you to Kaas in between). It was a very soothing ride, watching the sunrise and people running and walking on the roads early in the morning. I finally reached Satara in half an hour. I took the rickshaw guy's cell number in case I don't get network the next day and in case of any emergency.
Luckily there were just couple of families near the ticket counter as I approached the management for my ticket. It costed me Rs.100 being Saturday (The fee is Rs.50 per person on normal days and Rs.100 on weekends and govt. holidays) and I could enter the plateau from all the gates. There are typically four gates from where tourists are made to enter. It helps when crowd is large. Also typically, around 3000 people are allowed in a day. There are arrangements for online booking as well. There are washrooms right next to the booking counter.
I entered Kaas through gate number 1 as it was the nearest to me and started to walk leisurely. It was already October and the season was about to end, the air was cooler and grass was turning yellow. But because last year the rains continued till early October, I still had a chance. Slowly, the yellow of the grass turned into shades of pink and pink to blue to red to bright yellow and I was in the middle of a variety of flora, with only a couple of people far off. After about half an hour and a long hike into gate number 1 right towards the end where I could see the valley, I headed back.
Now, I was into gate number 2. The best part was that towards the end of the plateau, I could see the beautifully green Koyna valley. Felt like spending some time at that place in solitude, I also munched on the food that I was carrying.
It was now around 8 am and crowd started flocking in. From groups of friends to a lot of families from Mumbai, Pune, Satara etc. I explored another gate which was quite far, although it had nothing much to offer, so I headed back. I had my tea from a local shop and took a breather from the last 2 hours of walking and exploring. I had little to no network and I was trying for gmaps to guide me till the Kaas lake which was part 2 of this trip. I had planned to camp there that night and had to explore the place nearby such that I could camp safely and hassle free.
Kaas lake was around 3 kilometers from the plateau and I started my hike along the deserted plateau on one side next to the road. It was around 11 am now and the sun was almost on my head. It was a downhill walk until I reached a group of dhabas and finally a sight of civilization. I checked in with them and went to the lake to explore the surroundings. The lake was serene with almost no human being in the far vicinity and I was looking for a flat surface on the lakeside to pitch my tent in the evening that day.
I got in touch with one of the local men and told him about my plan. I wasn't sure of how the camping would be and I wanted it to be free of any problems with the locals. (Note - Many times, specially if it's not a popular camping place, it's best to let the locals know just in case if there are any permits or if there is any emergency, you can always go to them). It was around 12:30 ish in the afternoon and I was hungry, so I winded down and ordered the local chicken thali which was freshly being prepared. Man! it was one of the most delicious meal I had for a long time. I reflected on my experience till that point and packed again to rest near the lake.
Gradually the crowd was building up. Too many families flocking in with the private cars and taxis, having picnics and littering all over. It was very sad watching all this reckless inhuman thing happen all around me(Later I got to know that that particular long weekend was the last chance to witness Kaas last year and hence the crowd). It was difficult for me to find a lean shade under a tree as almost all shades were occupied with people. I started to get a minor headache because of lack of sleep or the hike in the sun maybe. Finally I pitched my tent somewhere far from the major crowd. I tried to rest for couple of hours before pitching my tent for the rest of the evening and night, but another family parked their car right next to my tent. They had a pretty loud picnic followed by a ton of hoking just for fun. It was not funny for me though, I had to pack in a hurry to get out of that place.
Fast forward to sunset time and the lake side was like marine drive on a weekend. I couldn't find any corner where I could sit and enjoy the sunset, so I decided to wait some more until people start to make a move back to their stays. When it was almost complete sunset, I had no other option but to pitch my tent on a flat surface. The crowd was leaving but there were still a lot of families left on the edge of the lake. As I pitched my tent, I could notice people literally revolving around it as if it's a space ship just landed from Saturn :D. Some people started to give demonstration of the tent to children, many kept staring and even asked me about my plans for the night. It was quite weird initially but I understood that it is not normal for people to see solo campers in that area even though Koyna wildlife sanctuary was right next to that place where trekkers camp regularly.
After all the question and answers and hi hellos, it started to get dark and it was just me left at the lakeside with my tent, a bunch of wood for fire and couple of dogs. I had borrowed some vegetable oil from locals to help with the fire and was carrying some newspaper as well. By that time, my headache was pounding. I tried lighting up the fire, and was almost successful until it went off twice. I rushed back towards the local dhaba, about half a kilometer from my tent to ask for a pain killer which I forgot that day (Note - the first thing that you should put in your backpack while travelling solo is the medical kit). Lucky they had one. I took it and rushed back to the tent. All plans for the evening coffee were off and it was pitch dark with the silent lake in front of me. It started to get colder as well. I ate few dry fruits and went inside my tent. It was around 8ish in the evening.
ast forward midnight, I heard loud music playing right next to me in a car with young guys shouting and howling. It was a drinking party on the lake's edge. Honey Singh was too loud and I waited patiently for them to leave before I could sleep again. I was carrying a camping knife with m just in case things get overboard because alcohol makes you do things you don't intend to and I had to keep myself safe as well. Luckily the hooligan party went away after maybe 30-40 min. I tried to sleep again, but the dogs started to howl at the peak of their throats. It was as if they were sensing danger. They just wouldn't stop. I even had thoughts of a panther approaching my tent or any other wild animal. I had no interest in going out and checking ;P
I checked my watch and it was 6am. I stepped out from my tent to a serene lake and no human around. Poor dogs were coiling right next to my tent probably because it was cold in the night or maybe they were scared. I looked around, spent some time near the lake, washed my face and packed up. Luckily I got some hot water in that dhaba early in the morning. The night's headache was light but still there and coffee was the savior. I had made up my mind to go back to Kaas plateau and take a rick or a bus back to Satara, but after checking on gmaps and with the locals, I couldn't miss the opportunity to witness Vajrai waterfall.
All caffeinated and packed, I put my hands in my pockets and started walking in the beautiful morning sun towards Vajrai waterfall viewpoint. It was on the opposite site of my camping point around 3 kilometers of minor ascend. I had to cross the Vajrai village to get to the waterfall. As always, I was halted by dogs, not one, not two, for of them back to back and every time I had to put my backpack down so that they would stop barking and let me go. It was a nightmare but I crossed them, I had come so far, I wouldn't back off because some dogs feel insecure because of my rucksack :D. Gradually, the path was an off-road and a nature trail. The sun was soothing and I crossed a family who was staying nearby. After reaching the edge of the plateau, I peeked through the side of a bush and voila! I could see a wooshing Vajrai waterfall. It was looking very beautiful among the green vegetation and morning sun. I didn't spend a lot of time there, it was almost 8:30 in the morning and the first local bus towards Satara crosses the Vajrai village around 9am. I rushed back to the temple near the village entrance, the pickup point of the bus as per the locals, but again I was stopped by those dogs. Typically one of them was a bit furious and wouldn't let me go. Thankfully a local woman saved my ass and held that pup!
I waited near the temple for the bus but it wouldn't arrive. I started to walk down the road in case there is no bus and I could save time. But luckily within 5 minutes, the bus was there. A bumpy ride, in fact a super dooper bumpy ride to Satara bus depot in Rs.40 only :) I bought couple of bananas and took another pain killer for my headache before boarding a Shivshahi bus back to Kharghar. A very comfortable ride none the less. Sunday late afternoon I was back home with a ton of learning and memories.
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